Monday 6 September

We awake to the sound of Straw Beck bubbling, ducks quacking and then splash landing into the beck. We buy Usha Gap lamb sausages from the shop and will eat these tonight when they’ve defrosted.

We walk towards Keld on part of the Pennine Way and take a detour to look at the waterfalls. Down a very step slippery descent. Very impressive. Then we cross the Swale and head upwards, eating our lunch overlooking an almost Alpine scene: pine trees, steep valley and ruined cow houses. After our even meagre rations (no tangerines today) we head down to where the Swinner Beck joins the path. We decide to head up this and find a path from the top. A very steep ascent takes us above the beck which we walk down to and across and then the path fizzles out and we have to make a vertical , slow climb to reach another path coming in from Crackpots. Neither OS map nor GPS correspond and we walk too far upwards, eventually joining a private track which we have to descend for a long way, high above the camp site and with no way of taking a direct route home.

Although weary we have been sustained by the thought of the eventual pint at the Farmers’ Arms at Muker. But when we finally get there it’s closed. So we buy bottled beer at the local shop and drink this on a bench just below the Literary Institute building. Very sunny and hot. About 6 hours hot walking today.

Uscha Gap sausage casserole for supper. Delicious.