Sunday 5 September: cycling and walking in Swaledale

 Rather than cockerels it is ducks quacking that we hear as we wake, with the relaxing sound of the water running in the beck beside our van. It is dry and still and we even manage breakfast al fresco before heading off on our bikes for a Swaledale circuit. We start along the dale which is undulating and the scenery is stunning but gets better as we climb. I even manage a 25% gradient section although I admit it is short! We are in the middle of the nowhere on the moorland and it is glorious. The highest point is at Tan Hill where there is an Inn where we enjoy a coffee in the sunshine. It is a hub for fellow cyclists (and a lot of motorcyclists and camper van drivers!). Almost downhill all the way to Reeth where we have an early picnic lunch. It is surprisingly busy. Back along the Swale valley to the campsite 28 miles later. Not bad for a warm up day! Coffee and flapjack at the van and then a gentle stroll up the Swale by foot. Sunshine results in more spectacular scenery. There are numerous ancient stone barns in every field which we gather are Cow Houses known locally as “Cowusses”! We are so lucky to see everything in these conditions. Our first pint at the Farmer’s Arms in Muker on the way back: mine a light Harvester Pale Ale brewed on the premises. The campsite is much emptier now. Such a lovely setting with great facilities. Even a drying room for our socks! Simon is cooking Leek Risotto for supper.