Tuesday 7 September: Buttertubs Pass

  We wake to blue skies and sunshine: a two day heatwave it seems. Breakfast outside before heading off on our bikes. Again, stunning scenery as we follow the Swale up the Dale towards Kirkby Stephens. A steep descent down in time for a delicious filter coffee and coffee + walnut cake for me and cheese scone for Simon. My pedal is making an annoying clunking sound which provokes anxiety but doesn’t appear to affect performance! There are no cycle shops in KL so we pedal on along the Mallerstang valley following the railway line which goes to Settle we believe. Sadly the road seems steeper that a railway track and we are heading into the sun. Pendragon castle is an impressive 11th century ruin inhabited only by sheep. We eventually arrive feeling hot and rather weary into Hawes. It is market day and very busy. We do find a cycle shop - more cafe than bike shop really but nevertheless a pleasant young man advises that I need new pedals so fixes some for me. I am running out of excuses. Picnic lunch in the shade of the Churchyard and a wander through the picturesque town before heading off up Buttertubs Pass - used as a stage in the Tour de France in 2014 when it started in Yorkshire. Legs are a bit weary but I am proud to get all the way without pushing. There are some steep sections but luckily short and the views are wonderful. The Buttertubs are better than expected: deep sinkholes formed by acidic rainwater erosion over the centuries and allegedly used by farmers to keep butter cool in between market days. A sweeping descent back to Muker and a well deserved beer by the van. Tuna pasta on the menu this evening and more sun forecast.